the land of the blue dragon (vietnam) pt. 1

the land of the blue dragon (vietnam) pt. 1

May 20, 2025

We’ve made it to ‘Nam.

It’s good to be back, and it has been interesting revisiting this city that I had seen a few years prior with new eyes.

ho chi minh city #

We spent one of our first evenings in the city going on a food tour. Whilst it was an enjoyable time, it was a little underwhelming as they showed us foods we were both already quite familiar with - bun bo hue, rice paper rolls, banh mi. The highlight for me were these leaf wrapped meat rolls which were paired with a delicious peanut satay-like sauce.

food tour final meal
The final meal on the tour.

no 14 ton that dam #

My favourite thing about Ho Chi Minh City was an apartment complex simply called No. 14 Ton That Dam, which was just its address. A similar, more popular spot to go to nearby is the ‘Cafe Apartments’, but I found this a little over-touristy, whereas this was spot was perfect for me.

no 14 ton that dam
The unassuming outside.

driveway
You enter the building through the driveway.
stairways
Some of the criss-cross stairways in the building.
signs
Some helpful signs.
first floor
The cool, graffiti-laden interior of the first floor.
graffiti
A selection of graffiti.
blue accents
Blue accents.
textured wall
A textured wall.
memento saigon
Memento Saigon, a particularly floral cafe/bar hidden behind a door.
vintage chairs
Cute vintage chairs.
myself and walid
Myself and Walid, a friend I made from our hostel.
whisfee cafe
Walid having a coffee at Whisfee Cafe.
whisfee cafe
A nice balcony in the cafe to look over the street from.

railway walk #

One afternoon, I decided to follow a self-guided walking tour alongside the railway in HCMC, which was a nice way to get acquainted with some of the lesser known streets in the city.

railway
The railway.
houses by railway
The houses were very close to the train. I couldn't imagine sleeping here peacefully.
decorations
The walkways had lots of little decorations like this.
local temple
A local temple.
approaching train
The train approaching.
train
D19E-956 reporting for duty.
bikers waiting
Bikers waiting patiently.
controller
The train controller had to manually pull out the metal gate and wave the train through.
traffic
Traffic on the side of the tracks.
graffity alley
Graffiti alley.
busy paths
One of the busy paths alongside the railway.
vietnamese woman
A delightful woman who I chatted to briefly about her experience working with Americans during the Vietnam War. She explained it was why she was good at speaking English.
plastic chair
Love a plastic chair.
side street
A side street nearby.
meat stall
Man attending a meat stall.

the cafe apartments #

Myself and Walid spent a little bit of time checking out the Cafe Apartments, however I wasn’t terribly impressed and found it overly touristy.

balconies
Some balconies.
greenery
The greenery throughout the building was a nice touch.

museum of traditional vietnamese medicine #

Thought I’d educate myself on Vietnam’s traditional medicine history.

spice bags
Bags full of god-knows-what.
botanical illustrations
The botanical illustrations were very impressive.
mushroom replica
A large replica of some mushrooms.
pottery
Pottery, assumably to store some medicine.
giant teapot
'Fancy a cuppa?'
ginseng roots
Carved ginseng roots.

can tho #

After Ho Chi Minh City, we decided to go on a bit of a Mekong Delta journey before reaching Cambodia, and our first stop was a town called Can Tho.

floating market boat tour #

We stayed in a homestay with a lovely woman called Ms. Ha who woke us up early (around 5.30am) to take us on a floating market boat tour.

homes by the mekong
The homes by the Mekong.
rickety boat
Our rickety little boat.
boats
Many boats would be floating by with various produce on them. You could go up to them to purchase goods if you'd like, but we just sailed by.

noodle factory #

As part of our floating market tour, we stopped off at a local noodle factory.

noodle woman
A woman prepping some noodles.
noodle staff
Ms. Ha (pictured wearing sandals) chatting to the staff.
noodle factory workers
The working conditions in the factory were cramped and it was incredibly hot inside. I don't know how these women do it.
noodles
The fruits of their labour.
buckets
Some of the buckets used to process the noodles.
ms ha unimpressed
Ms. Ha looking unimpressed.
blender
A blending contraption of some sort.
workstation
A workstation.
noodle goop
Full of noodle goop.
working woman
Hard at work.

rice paper making #

On this same tour, we were taken to a rice paper factory where we learnt how to prepare rice paper, run them through a flattening machine and dry them on some sun racks.

local cooking
A local cooking the rice paper over steam.
alt
Laying the freshly cooked rice paper out onto the drying rack.
alt
Ready for the sun.
alt
Where they're all laid out.
alt
Ready to roll.
spinning the wheel
My turn to spin the wheel.
spinning the wheel
Jade's turn to spin the wheel.

rice wine brewing shed #

We got to see how rice wine or ‘happy water’ is prepared.

rice wine machine
This is the entire setup.
alt
Heating up the fermented rice.
alt
The distilled rice wine is then slowly dripped into this plastic bottle on the other end.

tofu shop #

We also got to observe a shop preparing fresh tofu.

tofu water
Ms Ha mixing some tofu water.
tofu workers
The long tofu blocks being prepped by the workers.

sa dec #

Our next stop along the Mekong was to visit Sa Dec, a town known for its flower farms.

staying in a flower farm #

We stayed at Maison en Bambou Phong-Le Vent, a homestay right in the middle of a bunch of flower farms, which was a perfect way to get immersed in what the town is known for.

entrance bridge
The motorbike entrance bridge.
ferns
One the farms specialised in ferns.
house
Our house for two nights.
farm buildings
Assorted buildings around the farm.
pathways
To get between parts of the farm and homestay, you had to walk over walkways suspended above water.
workstation
One of the workstations, I guess.
greenhouse
A greenhouse in the distance.
neighbours yard
The neighbours yard.
selfie
A selfie.
blue house
Blue house at sunset.
ixora coccinea
An ixora coccinea plant.
ixora coccinea
Close-up.
jackfruits
A few jackfruits.
alt
This was just one farm. I've read estimates of there being up to 1500 families each growing their own flowers for sale.
tarp
Tarp.
wheelbarrows
Wheelbarrows.
cat
Resident cat.

xeo quyt forest #

We visited the Xeo Quyt Forest for a day, which is a 52-hectare mangrove forest that also has a history of being a base used by the Vietnamese during the Vietnam war.

We drove our motorbikes there, and had to hop across the Mekong river on a ferry.

motorbike ferry
Taking a motorbike on a ferry wasn't on my bingo card, that's for sure.
jade walking forest
Jade walking through the forest.
lush
Lush.
vietnam war relics
I couldn't quite figure out what these were for. I think they were Vietnam war related.
bunker sign
A bunker sign.
nature
Relatively untouched nature.
fishtail palm
A hanging fishtail palm.
jade
Couldn't be happier.
leaves and sticks
Some leaves and sticks in water.
sun spot
A little bit of shine touching the floaters.
sun saying hello
The sun saying hello.
log in green
Log in green.
boatman
The boatman is not in.
friends
A few friends we made as we were leaving.
friends
Peace!

chau doc #

Our final stop along the Vietnam Mekong was the town Chau Doc, right near the border with Cambodia.

Whilst here, Jade and I become friends with a guy called Rob who also happened to live in Fitzroy North, only minutes away from where me and Jade’s previous sharehouse was. Pretty crazy coincidence.

It was good to chat shit with him and talk about how Queen’s Parade (a street in Clifton Hill) is a pretty crap place to go out. We talked about home for a little while, and he told us he was ending his journey soon and heading back home to start a family with his partner. A nice little surprised on the border.

tra su cajuput forest #

The main draw near Chau Doc is the Tra Su Cajuput Forest, which is a huge ecosystem spanning 850 hectares which plenty of waterways to take boats down.

boat tour
Merrily we roll along.
lotus plants
Lotus plants along the water.
lotus plants
Some more lotus plants.
lotus bulb
A lotus bulb.

having beer
An evening beer at the Victoria Chau Doc Hotel. There were many mosquitoes.

Finally, we had to make the call to take a boat up the river into Cambodia. We’ll be back soon enough to continue our second leg of Vietnam.