the land of the morning calm (south korea)

the land of the morning calm (south korea)

March 26, 2025

We’ve arrived in South Korea, and boy is it cold. We’ve decided to start it off by staying in the Hongdae area of Seoul due to its proximity to nightlife.

This may or may not have been a mistake.

seoul #

Seoul is an interesting city. It’s quite busy and the nightlife is pretty bonkers, especially on the main bar streets. Our choice of staying at a party hostel was perhaps a misguided one, as we spent multiple nights getting blind and wasting the following day in bed. However, it was very social and we had made multiple friends to spend time with.

bukchon hanok village #

I visited Bukchon Hanok Village, which is a residential area in Seoul with multiple traditional Korean houses. Most of these houses are used by actual residents. I can’t imagine having my house be a tourist attraction.

bukchon hanok village street
The main street in the village.
bukchon hanok village street
The street slopes upwards as it's on a mountain.
bukchon door
A solid wood door.
horse figuring
A little horse figurine that looks rather possessed.
bukchon house
I like the mixture of wood panelling and stone foundation.
bukchon side street
A little side-street.
bukchon outskirts
On the outskirts of the village.
bukchon passageway
Little passageways lead you through the area.

constitutional court protest #

After visiting Bukchon Hanok Village, I was walking back to the train station and accidentally wound up in a protest outside the constitutional court. Turns out these protesters were pro the president who tried to stage a coup. I did not want to stick around long, but found the contrast of the protest and tourists wearing traditional clothing to be interesting.

south korean flags
There were also a lot of US flags, interestingly.
constitutional court
Outside the Constitutional Court.
protest
A woman wearing traditional clothes makes her way through the crowd.

gyeongbokgung palace #

I didn’t take many photos inside of the palace, but this is considered the main tourist attraction of the city. It’s also the birthplace of hangul, the lettering system of the Korean language.

gyeongbokgung palace front
The front of the palace.

korean bbq #

Would a trip to South Korea be complete without some Korean BBQ?

korean bbq
So so delicious.

dmz #

I took a trip outside Seoul to visit the DMZ like a lot of tourists do. It was a bit eerie being able to see across the landscape to see the hermit kingdom, but the tour I went on was a little dull. We did get to go underground into one of North Korea’s infamous tunnels they built in the 70s, which was something.

DMZ posing
Myself and Ophelia, a friend I made on the tour.
statue dmz
The DMZ park had many outdoor statue-like art pieces.
statue of peace
The Statue of Peace, a symbol of the 'comfort women' enslaved by the Japanese during WWII.

suwon #

Jade and I took a day trip to Suwon to check out the Suwon Hwaesong Fortress.

suwon hwaseong fortress #

You could see the entire skyline of Suwon from above.

suwon
Suwon's skyline.
fortress wall path
The path alongside the fortress wall.
fortress wall path
We spent a few hours walking.
fortress path
Nearing the end.
jade looking over the wall
Jade looking over the wall.
fortress wall gate
One of the gates along the path.
fortress structure
A structure at the top of the hill.

gyeongju #

After experiencing Seoul for a little while, we travelled down to Gyeongju to visit some historical sights.

daereungwon burial mounds #

We visited these burial mounds, which are tumulus mounds that function as tombs. Many of them contain various artifacts, including plenty of ancient jewellery.

burial mound
During summer, these mounds are green. Much prettier I'd imagine.
dry land
Pretty dry and arid during the cold winter months.
dry land
It appeared like the managers of the area were prepping this land for flower and vegetation displays during summer.
jade checking his phone
Instagram beckons.
astronomical observatory
This is the Cheomseongdae Astronomical Observatory, one of the oldest observatories in the world.

woljeonggyo #

This bridge was originally built in 760 CE, but was only reopened back in 2018. It also looks pretty at night.

bridge at night
You could walk across stones placed in the water in front of the bridge.

yangdong folk village #

We also visited a Korean folk village which was founded in the 15th century during the Joseon period. It features a lot of thatched-roof houses and the residents here attempt to preserve their local customs.

yangdong folk village
It was a quiet day in the village.
thatched roof
A thatched roof of one of the houses.
yangdong house
It's unclear which houses are lived in or not.
yangdong garden
Many of the residents have gardens that we saw them attending to.
well
The town's well.
tour group
We were not a part of the tour group, but we did follow them a little bit.
plum blossoms
Plum blossoms.

busan #

We visited Busan, our final stop before heading back to Seoul, which is the second largest city in South Korea.

jade taking a picture
Taking a snap.
elvis impersonator
An Elvis impersonator on Haeundae Beach was not on my bingo card.

gamcheon culture village #

We spent a day visiting Gamcheon Culture Village, which is a maze of coloured buildings, with many having a focus on arts and culture.

gamcheon buildings
I liked how the buildings appeared to curve in on themselves.
gamcheon buildings
Tightly packed and sprawling.
gamcheon rooftops
Who is in charge of painting the rooftops?
blue rooftop
In case you were wondering, the words on the roof mean 'Gamcheon Culture Village'. Thrilling, I know.
wall decorations
The streets are adorned with cute decorations like these.
odd shrine
An interesting shrine, complete with a squeezable chicken.
pot plants
A few pot plants.
cat
A cat with a plan.
street
A street nearby the village entrance.
steep street
It was quite a steep part of town.

duf coffee #

My favourite part of Gamcheon! And one of the highlights of South Korea in general. DUF Coffee is the most bonkers and unique cafe I have ever been to.

duf coffee front
You really are stepping into a different world. You'll see.
duf coffee front
These words made me curious enough to check it out.
duf coffee
The namesake.
korean guide
Some helpful guides on how to order a coffee in Korean.
duf coffee room
One of the many rooms to explore.
fake rats
I assure you these were fake rats.
hanging vegetables
Hanging produce.
hammock
If you fancy a cheeky snooze.
fluffy bear
A regular.
monkey
A kinky monkey.
momo mask
Jade found a creepy momo mask.
pretty nook
A pretty nook to enjoy your coffee.
crocodile party game
A stressful party game where you have to press in the crocodile's teeth and hope it doesn't bite down.
pocari sweat
After the copious amounts of pocari sweat we had in Japan, it was only time before we started turning into one ourself.
duck
The outdoor backyard had ducks which you could feed.

haedong yonggungsa #

I spent half a day visiting Busan’s most famous temple.

train view
The ocean view from the train.
temple by the ocean
Haedong Yonggungsa Temple.
doltap stones
A series of stacked stones, or 'doltap'. They help ward off evil spirits and bring good luck.
candles
Candles at the temple.

drone light show #

One evening, we checked out the Busan drone light show, which was pretty impressive. Whilst the following is just a picture, the figures that were made in the sky were moving.

alt
South Korea loves a bit of baseball.

That’s it for Busan.

After looping back to Seoul and spending a few more days there, we decided to move onto our next country, Taiwan.